Tuesday 4 October 2011

Hello

So there I am paddling out this morning, it's 3ft with the odd 4ft set rolling in - bit onshore but very surfable - and I can see that's there's only one other person out there already. And then as I scratch over the last set, I clock who it is! It's my missus - Janey! Which is a surprise - because when she got up this morning she said she felt like she'd been run over by a steam roller! (She went in yesterday). So it was just the two of us surfing out there together, no-one else to be seen - now that hasn't happened in many years. It was pretty fun as it goes - the sort of session where the waves are all over the place and it's hard to second guess what it's going to do once you're on it. But you can luck into some really good solid ones.

Libby, our black lab was stoked to be back on the beach too (no more dog ban) - all in all quite a family affair.

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