Tuesday, 26 July 2011

Big Sam ripping it up this afternoon. Busy on the beach.

Surf, Surf, Surf

The surf's been lining up beautifully the last few days. Two to three foot, light breeze. Even I have been hitting it hard! Twice already today and it's only two o'clock. Last night was epic. I'd enjoyed a really good session earlier in the day and when I came down to do the final trailer pack, I thought "Hang on, there's some fun to be had out there" the returning instructors, confirming my suspicions. So I paddled out at about 9.30pm, with the light fading fast and the sun long gone. The great thing about late night surfing is that the faces on the waves are jet black, it makes them look much bigger. Timing the take off is a challenge as they look steeper than they are. So a few went by that I should have caught, but the last one was worth waiting for in the 3ft plus range. Happy days.
Let me introduce you to the sheep in the field next to our house. Our dog Libby has learned not to chase them, which is pretty cool. She was right next to me when I took this photo last night, hence the faces all looking up in my direction. It was exactly at this point that I wondered about going for another surf - it's already looking a bit gloomy.

(ps slow news day)

Monday, 25 July 2011


I didn't bother bringing my camera down this morning. I don't have a mist filter! Good news is that it's clearing up - so we can now see the surf! 1-2ft, glass, overcast. And really not that busy on the beach. The Police were busy warning everyone that this was the 'great getaway' and that the roads would be packed - but that hasn't been the case. Not yet anyway. Driving to and from Plymouth yesterday there was very little traffic around and the campsites are still very quiet. Personally, I think it's a good thing. There's room for everyone to move. As businesses you just cut your cloth accordingly. But I'm not sure everyone will agree.

Update - sun's out, and there's a few people about!