Did I say 'quiet beach'? My mistake! Don't these people have jobs or schools to go to! This is a long distance swell which means that it's travelled from across the other side of the Atlantic. The set waves therefore are a long way apart. The upshot is that even the most inexperienced can sit there in the line-up as there's spells of flat to make the paddle out! Although a fantastic experience for novice surfers they do then act as speed bumps for the better surfers when the set waves actually do arrive. Rather than actually surf the wave as you see it, the better surfer then has to surf the wave whilst avoiding all the rabbits in headlights - and that is most unsatisfactory! At high tide this is ten times worse as the beach is so much smaller and everyone is much closer together, which is when I went in!! Mistake. Will I never learn. Thing is when the sun is shining and there's good surf you just want go head on in, just incase you miss the moment.
Oh well, low tide is late afternoon, will tickle into a few with the boys about then.
If I've said it once.... they have to change the school term time. Most schools go back today and what do we have - 70 degrees and 3 ft glassy surf! Mind you, we're not complaining - quiet beach with pumping surf - sweet as. Going to go and tickle into a few myself right .... now! Yippee!
Punk, was the theme for our staff party last night - it was hard to tell who'd dressed up! Fun was had by all. We've had a really good team this year - one of the best. A lot of them head back to Uni / College or in go off in search of proper jobs as of next week - the hardcore will still be here, but we'll miss them.