Thursday 2 September 2010

Did I say 'quiet beach'? My mistake! Don't these people have jobs or schools to go to! This is a long distance swell which means that it's travelled from across the other side of the Atlantic. The set waves therefore are a long way apart. The upshot is that even the most inexperienced can sit there in the line-up as there's spells of flat to make the paddle out! Although a fantastic experience for novice surfers they do then act as speed bumps for the better surfers when the set waves actually do arrive. Rather than actually surf the wave as you see it, the better surfer then has to surf the wave whilst avoiding all the rabbits in headlights - and that is most unsatisfactory! At high tide this is ten times worse as the beach is so much smaller and everyone is much closer together, which is when I went in!! Mistake. Will I never learn. Thing is when the sun is shining and there's good surf you just want go head on in, just incase you miss the moment.

Oh well, low tide is late afternoon, will tickle into a few with the boys about then.

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