Thursday 29 September 2011

Thursday morning wave

3ft, maybe more on the sets, huge tide. High at the moment and lots of moving water. Should get pretty special as the tide ebbs.

Midday - and I have jelly arms. I had nothing more to give out there. What was it? 4ft on the sets - some nice drops. Moved over to the left away from the crowd when the tide pushed back, sneaked in a few real good ones. A very happy boy.

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